
First it was the rugosa roses. If you don’t know them, that’s a joy in store. The first time you inhale the aroma, you just sigh and say, “Now that’s a rose!” They are unique, with new plants shooting up from the roots and forming rangy beds (not everybody likes this; they do roam). The wrinkly leaves, the dense thorns. They aren’t finicky. They don’t get black spots. Perfect for the dilettante gardener.
Last year, the day before starting our walking tour of the Stockholm Archipelago Trail, we knocked around Sodermalm, one of the island neighborhoods that make up Stockholm. It’s the best part of traveling, having no preconceived notion of what we’ll see and then stumbling onto a gem.
I smelled the roses before I saw them. Came around a corner smiling, then stopped in wonder at the Sofia Church, surrounded by rugosa blooms. Sofia Church was built in 1906, “striking Neo-Gothic” according to a Stockholm museum website. I don’t claim to know what that means. To me it was graceful in the quiet way of a great beauty. It beckoned us in and we were lucky to arrive when a singer, pianist and bassist were practicing a lovely simple soaring song.
This kind of serendipity resonates. I’ve encountered practicing musicians in three churches in three countries while banging around in an unscheduled way. The first time, an organist filled a mostly empty cathedral with big deep bass notes in Clermont-Ferrand, a city in the heart of the Massif Central region of France. The second time, another organist danced over the higher notes in Bologna Italy’s complex, stunning and deeply old Basilica di San Petronio, my favorite of the religious edifices I’ve wandered through. That’s a blog, or maybe a full memoir, for another day.
We went on from the city and the Sofia Church to six days of hiking a trail across the archipelago, one that connects the disparate island sections via ferry.
It’s a year since that trip. Going back isn’t off the table.

Photos by Susan Palmer



